New York Times

2022 - 7 - 3

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Mariah Lopez Is Suing New York, Over and Over, for Transgender ... (The New York Times)

Mariah Lopez first sued the city at age 13. Her latest settlement has forced the city to overhaul how it treats transgender people who are homeless.

The city transferred Ms. Lopez to a women’s shelter, claiming in court papers that she violated rules, threatened staff and hit a security guard. “We accumulated really horrific stories about people being chased out of shelter, as if people had pitchforks,” said Chinyere Ezie, a lawyer for the center. And I was like, ‘Oh, I think this is what I want to do.’” Even as the surgery case was pending, Ms. Lopez took the city to court again. As the court fight dragged on, Ms. Lopez gathered evidence that transgender people across the city’s shelter system were mistreated. As Ms. Lopez approached 21, when she would age out of foster care, she tried to compel the city to pay for gender affirmation surgery. She sought placement through the Department of Homeless Services at the city’s first shelter for L.G.B.T.Q. people, Marsha’s House, an 81-bed facility that had just opened in the Bronx. The shelter is named for Marsha P. Johnson, the transgender pioneer. Two years later, though, the city adopted a policy of paying for the surgeries for youth in foster care. Although Ms. Lopez was accepted at Marsha’s House, her dog was not. It must also put in place a host of anti-discrimination measures, including mandating anti-discrimination training for workers and overhauling how it responds to abuse complaints. At 17, she won the right to wear skirts and dresses in an all-male group home. “She has ways to catastrophize into really impactful, forward-looking litigation,” he said.

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In Buffalo, New Apartments Sprout Up in Vacant Warehouses (The New York Times)

A decade-long effort to transform industrial relics is showing signs of progress and expanding the city's population for the first time in 70 years.

One of his creations, which incorporates Arabic calligraphy that translates to “our colors make us beautiful,” jazzes up the side of a structure on Broadway. “The impact of the place has been phenomenal,” said Derek Frank, 41, who enrolled in classes after serving an eight-year prison sentence for dealing drugs. About 70 percent of the spaces at Seneca One are rented, most of them to M&T Bank, which is based in Buffalo, as well as a dozen small tech firms. Among the funding is $30 million for an African American heritage corridor along Michigan Avenue and $61 million to redevelop Central Terminal, a 17-story Art Deco train station that had its last passengers in 1979. An effort to create a cluster of hospitals called the Buffalo Niagara Medical Campus has caused gentrification. A nurse who grew up in Buffalo’s suburbs, Ms. Surowiec lives in the city limits today. For almost three decades, Ms. Foy worked around the corner as a social worker, though she never really stuck around at night, instead driving back to her home in the suburbs. Major efforts to improve the East Side have been afoot for years, like new job-training facilities and the overhaul of a deserted train station. Plans call for a wide pedestrian bridge over the highway. Among them is Seneca One Tower, the city’s tallest building and one of Buffalo’s most prominent projects. Perhaps the most visible sign of Buffalo’s changing fortunes are its new apartments, which turn up in empty warehouses, former municipal buildings and longtime parking lots converted into much-needed housing. BUFFALO — Buffalo was riding a decade-long economic turnaround when a racially motivated attack by a gunman killed 10 people in May, overshadowing the progress.

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Justice Department Braces for Rise in Violent Crime (The New York Times)

Top officials at the department met with prosecutors and the local police in Philadelphia in an effort to help cities prepare for a hot-weather crime wave ...

But Ms. Ryans, an anti-violence activist, has seen well-intentioned officials fail in the past. Ms. Monaco was also there to hear from the police directly. But the biggest recent boost, from the department’s perspective, might be among the least flashy: the confirmations of U.S. attorneys whose nominations had previously been blocked by Republicans in the Senate, providing frontline federal prosecutors with more stability in aggressively pursuing cases. Last year, at least 233 people were killed and 618 others were injured in about 500 shootings over the Fourth of July weekend, according to the Gun Violence Archive, an academic consortium that compiles law enforcement data. “I’m feeling that thing, that anxiety, about the summer. The associate attorney general, Vanita Gupta, who has tried to balance support of local law enforcement with the administration’s social justice agenda, oversees some of those initiatives. In Chicago, Mayor Lori Lightfoot is deploying additional patrols on the city’s West and South Sides. In Milwaukee, police officials are using new acoustic technology to pinpoint gunshots to identify six areas to concentrate on over the holiday weekend. The timing of Ms. Monaco’s trip, with the heat setting in over the city, was noteworthy. Yet the federal government, for all its vast investigative powers, plays a supporting role when it comes to fighting street crime. There has also been an uptick in prosecutions. Mass shootings like those in Buffalo and Uvalde, Texas, pop up with little public warning. Republicans have highlighted the issue, along with inflation, before the 2022 midterm elections, but Democrats, like Mayor Eric Adams of New York, are also embracing a law-and-order approach as their constituents demand action.

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Why 'Gayborhoods' Lose L.G.B.T.Q. Residents in Major Cities (The New York Times)

Many are choosing to live elsewhere in search of cheaper housing and better amenities. They are finding growing acceptance in other communities after ...

It’s just not as pressing as it was in the ’80s and ’90s.” The Castro Theater, a landmark backdrop for parades and protests over decades, is reopening after a long closure forced by Covid-19. Men, mostly, were drinking in bars, and some of the sex shops were open. The men and women who established these neighborhoods “wanted to segregate and be surrounded by gay people,” he said. “We have to be very intentional of protecting these neighborhoods — and keeping them queer,” he said. “What I see in Houston is we are losing our history,” said Tammi Wallace, the president of the Greater Houston L.G.B.T. Chamber of Commerce, who lives in Montrose, the city’s gay neighborhood. The draw of “gayborhoods” as a refuge for past generations looking to escape discrimination and harassment is less of an imperative today, reflecting the rising acceptance of gay and lesbian people. “Gay men are moving out of gay neighborhoods,” he said. “I wanted to get a picture of people walking in the rainbow crosswalk at the corner of Castro and 18th Street and there was nobody walking,” she said. “The Castro and San Francisco have changed a lot over the past 25 years. “I just can’t help but think that soon there will be a time when people walking up and down the street will have no clue what this is all about.” Across the country, L.G.B.T.Q. neighborhoods in big cities — New York, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco among them — are experiencing a confluence of social, cultural and economic factors, accelerated by the Covid-19 pandemic, that is diluting their influence and visibility. He has been a political and cultural leader, organizing gay men and lesbians when the AIDS epidemic devastated these streets in the early 1980s.

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3-D Printing Grows Beyond Its Novelty Roots (The New York Times)

With the technology improving and costs falling, 3-D printing could be poised to play a major role in manufacturing.

Beside each machine in VulcanForms’s facility, an operator monitors its performance with a stream of sensor data and a camera image of the laser beams at work, piped to a computer screen. But the company has convinced a roster of high-profile recruits that the risk is worth it. Within 48 hours VulcanForms had come back with a part, recalled Andrew Feldman, chief executive of Cerebras. Engineers for both companies worked on further refinements, and the cooling system is now in use. “We absolutely have to do it ourselves — build the full stack of digital manufacturing — if we are to succeed,” said Mr. Feldmann, who is the chief executive. The Biden administration is looking to 3-D printing to help lead a resurgence of American manufacturing. In five years, the company hopes to have several 3-D printing factories up and running. That print technology is the company’s core intellectual asset, protected by dozens of patents. The pair, joined by Anupam Ghildyal, a serial start-up veteran who had become part of the VulcanForms team, went to Silicon Valley. They secured a seed round of $2 million from Eclipse Ventures. It is far less wasteful than the casting, forging and cutting of traditional manufacturing. Because 3-D printing is a high-tech digital manufacturing process, administration officials say, it plays to America’s strength in software. Today, experts say, the potential is far broader than a relative handful of niche products. 3-D printing refers to making something from the ground up, one layer at a time.

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76 Fake Charities Shared a Mailbox. The I.R.S. Approved Them All. (The New York Times)

The tax agency is the gatekeeper for America's charity system, but reduced vetting has opened the door to scams.

Mr. Hosang stole more than $3,000 through their platform, according to the indictment in May. In 2021, federal records show, the I.R.S. approved groups whose mission statements were, in their entirety, “CHARITABLE ACTIVITY,” “NON-PROFIT” and “Need to fill in” (possibly a forgotten note to self). “One guy coming in, in a bunch of dollar-store costume pieces,” Mr. Weinsteiger said. The new “EZ” application stripped 11 pages of questions down to three, nine boxes to check and a small blank for groups to describe their mission. Once, when a rival visited to complain, investigators said, Mr. Hosang and the mob associate “dangled him out the window of the ninth-floor office.” As it turned out, Mr. Hosang had switched to using a new I.R.S. process for smaller charities. My son passed away,” Mr. Hosang said in the interview at his home, explaining how he had turned to setting up charities. In 2018, the American Cancer Society decided it needed a national approach. Soon after, it also approved another operation run by Mr. Hosang: “ the United Way of Ohio,” which was also registered to the Staten Island address. Mr. Hosang was indicted in Brooklyn in May on charges of grand larceny, identity theft and conducting a scheme to defraud. He wound up on the ugly side of Wall Street — accused of running “pump and dump” operations that conned customers into paying high prices for low-quality stocks. “They’re the gatekeeper to this whole universe of charitable subsidies.

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Hunter Reynolds, Artist Who Dressed Up AIDS, Dies at 62 (The New York Times)

After he learned he was H.I.V. positive, he began making art — often performing as his gown-wearing alter ego — that told stories about the condition.

It was, he added, “the emblem of a genial but politically pointed performance about liberation still very much in progress.” When Mr. Reynolds first presented it in a Boston gallery, spinning for hours on a pedestal as was his practice, people wept as they discovered the names of friends, family members and lovers. As a gay man and an artist, Mr. Reynolds was already interested in exploring the limits and the possibilities of gender. “He wrapped himself in it, particularly with the Memorial Dress, centering his own virus-infected body in it. Mr. Reynolds wore the dress all over Manhattan, ditching the bodice on the steps of the main branch of the New York Public Library. Mr. Reynolds died on June 12 at his home in Manhattan. He was 62. “He didn’t hide his H.I.V. status,” she said in a phone interview. His parents divorced when Hunter was 7. Mr. Reynolds and Ms. Stathacos were paying homage to a 1951 Surrealist work, Meret Oppenheim’s “Spring Feast” — but while that work served up its meal on a naked woman, they pointedly used a man for theirs. In 1992, in a piece called “ The Banquet,” held at the SoHo gallery Thread Waxing Space, he spun slowly on a pedestal, like a music box ballerina, in a white satin gown printed with images of drops of his blood and the hair of a collaborator, Chrysanne Stathacos — the prints looked like roses and delicate vines — while attendees snacked from a banquet laid out on a naked man, and women dressed as maenads read feminist texts aloud. He tossed on a tweed coat and headed out to various art-world events. Friends didn’t recognize him, so he pretended to be a performance artist visiting from Los Angeles.

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James Bardeen, an Expert on Unraveling Einstein's Equations, Dies ... (The New York Times)

A scion of a renowned family of physicist, he helped set the stage for what has been called the golden age of black hole astrophysics.

Dr. Bardeen would write a sentence and pass the pad to Dr. Press, who would either reject or approve it and then pass the pad back. Dr. Thorne recounted a recent telephone conversation in which they reminisced about the hiking and camping trips they used to take with their families. Dr. Bardeen was one of a half-dozen invited speakers. Another of Dr. Bardeen’s passions was cosmology. William Press, a former student of Dr. Thorne’s now at the University of Texas, recalled being sent to Seattle to finish a paper that Dr. Bardeen and he were supposed to be writing. He attended Harvard and graduated with a physics degree in 1960, despite his father’s advice that biology was the wave of the future. Dr. Bardeen was a scion of a renowned family of physicists. An avid hiker and mountain climber, he was drawn to the school by its easy access to the outdoors. Working under the physicist Richard Feynman and the astrophysicist William A. Fowler (who would both become Nobel laureates), Dr. Bardeen obtained his Ph.D. from the California Institute of Technology in 1965. At one, in Paris in 1967, he met Nancy Thomas, a junior high school teacher in Connecticut who was trying to brush up on her French. They were married in 1968. Dr. Bardeen was an expert on unraveling the equations of Einstein’s theory of general relativity. Following his father’s work, the family moved to Washington, D.C.; to Summit, N.J.; and then to Champaign-Urbana, Ill., where he graduated from the University of Illinois Laboratory High School.

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Researchers: Improving Eyesight May Help Prevent Dementia (The New York Times)

As experimental drugs prove ineffective against increasing dementia cases in the U.S., researchers argue that improving eyesight can have an effect.

“The idea that you can do a lot about it is powerful.” “These are things people can do in the communities where they live.” But for more common problems correctable with eyeglasses, “traditional Medicare is not going to help you out much,” said David Lipschutz, associate director of the nonprofit Center for Medicare Advocacy. Nor will it cover most hearing aids or exams, which are much higher expenses. Medicare Advantage programs, provided through private insurers, usually do include some vision and hearing benefits, “but look at the scope of coverage,” Mr. Lipschutz cautioned. The link between dementia and hearing loss, the single most important factor the Lancet Commission cited as a modifiable risk, has been well established. Some important risks for dementia lie beyond our control — genetics and family history, and advancing age itself. A focus on these factors could also help reassure older Americans and their families. Dementia cases are climbing along with an aging world population, and yet another much-anticipated Alzheimer’s medication, crenezumab, has proved ineffective in clinical trials — the latest of many disappointments. In fact, in wealthier countries, “it’s already happening as people get more education and smoke less,” she pointed out. But the proportions are dropping in Europe and North America, where the incidence of dementia has fallen by 13 percent per decade over the past 25 years. Altering habits and making lifestyle changes — like stopping smoking, reducing drinking and exercising regularly — are not simple. The influential Lancet Commission began leading the modifiable risk factor movement in 2017.

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Your Monday Briefing (The New York Times)

Pressure is now redoubling on the U.S. and its allies to get the more powerful weapons they have promised Ukraine to the front. Lysychansk had held out for a ...

A mall employee told a local news outlet that “masses of people” had run to seek shelter in the Kentucky Fried Chicken at Field’s. Staff members barricaded the doors and remained there for about 45 minutes, the employee said. Publishers, authors, even the makers of the videos were surprised. He is the fruit’s foremost poet, philosopher, fan and scientist. Books that take off there are mainly fiction and are generally a few years old. The shooting took place at Field’s, the largest shopping center in Denmark. Video and images posted on social media showed people sprinting out of the mall and ambulances lining its exterior. All the while,Nick Kyrgios’s matches and news conferenceshave become irresistible theater. “And people are like: ‘I want to feel that. The debate over unsolved killings particularly haunts the police, who are still viewed in Derry with deep resentment by much of the public. As the conflict drags on, their own citizens are feeling the economic pain, and unity among the allies may be difficult to sustain. A 22-year-old Danish suspect has been taken into custody, but the police said they had not ruled out the possibility that multiple people were involved. Lysychansk had held out for a week after Russia seized control of Sievierodonetsk, its twin city across the river. Russian forces yesterday shelled the Ukrainian city of Sloviansk, killing at least six people.

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Claddagh Ring (The New York Times)

The crown, which appears above the heart, is believed to have been introduced between the 1690s and 1700 by a Galway goldsmith named Richard Joyce. (According ...

As Mr. Margetts tells it, his grandfather, Patrick, heard a knock on the door of his home one Sunday in 1946. A lot of customers “like the simple, clean lines,” she said. “If you are in a relationship, you wear it with the crown pointing to your fingernail. “Many people would have kept the rings as a memory or connection to home,” Mr. O’Neill said. “I sell a lot of men’s wedding rings, they are not ornate. The design, which eliminated any detailing on the hands, cuffs and crown, was created by Eileen Moylan, a goldsmith with Claddagh Design. One theory is — because he was freed from slavery in North Africa by William III — the crown was a sign of thanks and gratitude to the king.” “I was inspired by fede rings, lovely, simple things,” she said. When Mr. Joyce returned to Galway, he set up as a goldsmith on Shop Street and over time the people of Claddagh, a mazelike fishing village of small thatched cottages just outside the city walls, began using his version of the ring as wedding bands. Today the Claddagh ring can be found almost anywhere — a journey that experts say began with the Irish famine of 1845-1852. Ms. Moylan said she was 8 when her grandmother gave her a Claddagh ring. The Dillon shop also has a small museum about the ring.

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Opinion | America Is Failing Refugees, and Itself (The New York Times)

For his 1985 documentary about the Statue of Liberty, the filmmaker Ken Burns interviewed two Jewish boys sitting on a bench in New York City.

The Times is committed to publishing a diversity of letters to the editor. In recent months, as the Vindmans’ homeland has come under siege by Russian forces, Mr. Burns reunited with the brothers to make the Opinion Video above. Like generations of refugees before them and generations since, they had arrived in the United States hoping for a better life.

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Jewelry Under the Sun (The New York Times)

As traveling resumes, luxury brands are chasing customers in vacation locations.

This summer, the East Hamptons gallery will feature creations by two London-based jewelers, Solange Azagury-Partridge and Cora Sheibani. He noted that half of the shop’s initial sales were to Americans and about 30 percent to Europeans. Scheduled to operate until September in Mykonos’s village of Nammos, the Cartier boutique has a typical Greek look: It’s housed in a whitewashed structure surrounded by olive trees. The disruption has also prompted some luxury names to turn their temporary sites into permanent locations. And Sotheby’s has made permanent the galleries that it opened in 2020 in the Hamptons and Palm Beach, Fla. “Now we have become part of the fabric of those places, and clients come to Palm Beach and East Hamptons also because we are there,” David Schrader, Sotheby’s global head of private sales, said in a phone call. And what did they buy?

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Macle Diamonds Gain Wider Audience (The New York Times)

The actress Nicole Kidman wore two wide macle cuffs at the Academy Awards in 2007. The bracelets were made ...

“When a beautiful large maccle is discovered in a fancy color it is preserved by De Beers to become a beautiful rough diamond jewelry piece of its own, for example as part of a high jewelry necklace,” Mr. Coxon said. “They occur naturally in the earth and are different from the more classic octahedral shape of rough diamonds.” My dad always said that the diamonds talk to us and tell us what they want to be, and these diamonds told us they needed to be on an arm and so they were!” “In general, uncut diamonds cost less than cut diamonds of similar quality and size,” Ms. Colbert said. “They were probably first used in jewelry in India about 2,500 years ago when diamonds were first discovered in Golconda,” Andrew Coxon, president of the De Beers Institute of Diamonds in the St. James’s quarter of London, said in an email. The two parts are oriented 60 degrees or 180 degrees from each other, so the macle looks like a flattened triangle.” “The term maccle describes a specific type of rough diamond. “When prongs are used, they need to be bulkier and/or longer to ensure security. “And I’ve seen more use in the consumer market of rough diamonds in their natural state. “They are for an inherently sophisticated customer,” Sally Morrison, director of public relations for natural diamonds in the De Beers Group, said by telephone from New York. “It’s a quiet, understated luxury. Greg Kwiat, the chief executive of Kwiat, a 115-year-old family-run brand based in New York, knows all about them. “We’re seeing more design using rough diamonds in their natural state,” Ms. Morrison said.

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Jewelers Court the Superrich (The New York Times)

Luxury brands double down in a strategic shift toward the biggest of the big spenders.

“We encourage people to come in and try things on, even if they can’t afford some of the pieces,” Mr. Pin said. “We know what they want, and we can funnel brand messages in a different way.” “The apartment is a ‘money can’t buy’ experience,” Ms. Poulit-Duquesne said. “It makes sense for luxury brands to be in Asia.” Boucheron offers what it calls V.I.C.s (“Very Important Clients”) with a stay in the luxurious penthouse of its boutique overlooking the Place Vendôme, with full-time concierge service provided by the Ritz hotel. Sales at the Richemont group, which owns Cartier, surpassed €19 billion in 2021, a 46 percent increase over the previous year. Just this spring, Chanel reopened its watch and jewelry flagship on the Place Vendôme in Paris, transformed into a contemporary showcase with the feel of an elegant, art-filled home. As a tribute, the company designed a high jewelry collection featuring a necklace set with a D-flawless diamond, cut into a single 55.55-carat stone in the shape and proportions of the perfume bottle’s stopper. High jewelry, he said, “is extremely dynamic, fine jewelry is on the rise, and watchmaking and haute horlogerie are also experiencing strong growth. Meanwhile, analysts project that Chinese consumers will be the dominant force in global luxury by 2025 despite restrictions imposed by their government’s pandemic policy. “We are very happy and satisfied with our growth, business is extremely good,” Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s president of watches and fine jewelry, wrote in an email. Its watches and jewelry division posted double-digit growth in 2021, which happened to be the 100th anniversary of Chanel’s No. 5 perfume.

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Extreme Weather Challenges Bikepackers on the Tour Divide Race (The New York Times)

The Tour Divide, a bikepacking race from the Canadian Rockies to the U.S. border with Mexico, has always been a test of fortitude. But extreme weather is ...

“In 2019 I was caught in the biggest June snowstorm in the history of Colorado,” he said. “In 2019 I was caught in the biggest June snowstorm in the history of Colorado,” he said. He said that in the hierarchy of bad conditions, the worst is riding into 45-mile-per-hour winds. Riding the Tour Divide in 2017, Bazile had to reroute 300 miles to avoid a Montana wildfire. Cyclists venture into the towns on the route to resupply and rest when they need to. Yet he was still determined to finish what he had started and ride the rest of the route to Mexico. When I was camping that night, it rained ash.” She is not competing in the Tour Divide this year, partly, she said, because of the extended fire season. (Hall, who set the record in 2016, was fatally struck by a car in an Australian race the next year.) The Tour Divide has had a free-for-all nature since the Adventure Cycling Association first mapped the route in the 1990s. “I just thought this was the continuing sadism of the 2022 Tour Divide.” Inching back up the ridge, “I was literally moving my bike 10 feet at a time,” Latta said. There is no entry fee and no prize — only the glory of surviving one of the most grueling solo competitions in the world.

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Chosen Families (The New York Times)

Today, as we observe the Fourth of July holiday in the U.S., I'm thinking about the permutations of family, the people we invite to the cookout, the ones ...

“What we’re doing, through the strength of our friendships and our mutual support, is changing the course of the way one lives their life.” Chefs are reimagining the street-food staple. The clock ticks. Now a significant question hangs over the offseason: If those players return to Russia to see their families, will they make it back? The I.R.S.approved 76 fake charities that shared a mailbox. The pandemic pod was a temporary chosen family, born of necessity. Chosen families are created outside the structures of (and often in place of) the traditional nuclear family. Once you’ve known the rewards of that sort of unexpected intimacy, it seems silly that any chosen family should be temporary. When a family of origin is absent or unsupportive, a chosen family is essential. “As you get into old age, moving into a nursing home is what’s expected, and many older people buy into that plan,” said Robert Reeves, a member of the group. The beauty of the chosen family is that you opt into it. In the case of the Bickersons, a group of about 10 to 20 queer women, most of whom live near Asheville, N.C., this means raucous Thanksgivings, fishing trips and three-day birthday celebrations.

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NYT Crosswors Answers: Country Singer Morgan (The New York Times)

Today, I wanted to share a solving tip with new solvers (so veterans, just hang on for a second, or move ahead to the Tricky Clues section). One thing I've been ...

Mr. Haight’s notes describe another theme entry he considered for a more subtle part of the statue — read on for that behind-the-scenes info! I’m thinking a 72-word puzzle with some difficult entries like ARC LIGHT and AT BOTTOM is going to be pretty challenging for a Monday, but we’ll see what solvers say. This puzzle has a theme type we see fairly frequently in early-week puzzles: one clunkily known as the “[theme] suggested by the starts/ends of [theme entries]” variety. But for your solves going forward, one of the best tips I can give you is to try to identify the theme and the theme entries. If the theme entries are in their normal long-Across spots, the Down entries going through them will be invaluable to cracking the code needed to spot the theme and solve the puzzle. And if you’re thinking, “But how do I figure out the theme if I can’t figure out the theme entries?” — well, that’s a reasonable question! 1A. This is a tough bit of crossword lingo right off the bat! 23D. Roman numeral clues are another crossword staple and can help a solver out when an entry might be unfamiliar or otherwise hard to clue. “That doesn’t do much for me” and MEH both mean something is unimpressive. That is, you’ll read the clue, but something weird will be going on with it, and you’ll need a better understanding of the theme in order to figure out exactly what the entry is. Today, I wanted to share a solving tip with new solvers (so veterans, just hang on for a second, or move ahead to the Tricky Clues section). One thing I’ve been surprised to hear from new solvers is that they sometimes don’t realize that each week, five out of seven New York Times Crossword puzzles are themed. And sometimes, usually later in the week when the puzzles get harder, the theme entries won’t be possible to figure out using just their own clues.

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Once a Crucial Refuge, 'Gayborhoods' Lose LGBTQ Appeal in Major ... (Yahoo! Voices)

SAN FRANCISCO — Cleve Jones has lived in the Castro neighborhood for nearly 50 years, almost from the day he graduated from high school in Phoenix and ...

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NYT Crossword Answers: Canada's Oldest National Park (The New York Times)

Malgorzata Nowakowska and Eileen Williams constructed this puzzle all too well.

But the revealer at 49D clues you in that this puzzle is about “Taylor ___, some of whose hit songs are featured in the answers to the starred clues.” 5A. When a clue asks for a “word with” two other words, you need to identify a word that could go before or after each of the words named in the clue to form a common term or phrase. The word has appeared once before in the New York Times Crossword and means, essentially, “take stealthily, informally.” 47A. I thought “Things made by doctors and bartenders” might be “shots,” but that didn’t have enough letters to fill the space. As I mentioned above, this crossword pays tribute to an artist — one who is near and dear to my heart: This puzzle, dear solvers, is a Taylor SWIFT tribute puzzle! One place to look for such puzzles is the Inkubator, an independent puzzle outlet that publishes “crossword puzzles by women and nonbinary constructors.” Edited by the New York Times Crossword constructors Laura Braunstein, Tracy Bennett (who is also an associate puzzle editor here at The Times), Stella Zawistowski and Brooke Husic, the Inkubator brings a fresh, alternative perspective to crossword puzzles. As Taylor alludes to in one of the hidden songs mentioned above, there’s nothing more frustrating than trying to solve a crossword and realizing there’s no right answer. We hope you don’t feel that way solving today. We’re both medical students at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston. The outlet also recently published the collection “ 100 Audacious Puzzles by Women and Nonbinary Creators,” which I’ve been enjoying all summer. 22A. A “Nuts and bolts drawer” might be a place in a toolshed for storing loose nuts and bolts, but a “Nuts and bolts drawer?” (with a question mark to tell you to look for a pun) is a MAGNET, which might draw nuts and bolts toward it with its magnetism. As Ms. Nowakowska (who goes by Margaret) and Ms. Williams observe in their notes, there is an appetite among many crossword solvers for more puzzles by and about women.

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When the Czarinas Ruled Fashion's Front Row (The New York Times)

A group of Russian women were once the hottest things at couture, embraced not just by fashion, but by the watching world. Where are they now?

Even when I went to Moscow Fashion Week and went to their homes, I rarely met the husband.” They are, say friends who do not want to be identified because they are worried about how the Kremlin might react, concerned that their former profiles may bring unwanted attention. And Ms Sergeenko, who grew up in Kazakhstan when it was part of the U.S.S.R. and later moved to Moscow, to the insurance billionaire Danil Khachaturov, the former president of Rosgosstrakh. In 2011, Ms. Duma, who has a master’s degree in international business from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations but started her career as an editor with Harper’s Bazaar Russia, opened a digital media platform called Buro 24/7 that grew to have offices in 12 countries. Many of the designers who once embraced them are leery of discussing them. Ms. Duma, who resigned as a company director of Pangaia in 2020 (she continues to make investments via Future Tech Lab), wiped her Instagram feed earlier this year. Later she divested from that and, positioning herself as a technology and sustainability guru, started an advisory and investment company called Future Tech Lab that focused on materials science and biotech and co-founded the materials science/responsible fashion brand Pangaia. (In 2018 she was named a Young Global Leader at the World Economic Forum.) Ditto the robber barons of the Gilded Age, and women like Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt, whose philanthropy, fashion and taste catapulted them into the center of society. A group of young women materialized en masse, with a magnetic combination of beauty, charm, wealth and wardrobes that sent the watching fashion world into a frenzy. “They represented style, sophistication, were very well traveled and had a lot of spending power. They were eye-catching bridges between Russia and the world. All were connected by their offbeat personal taste, a tendency to change clothes multiple times a day and their photographer friendliness and wealth.

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Image courtesy of "The New York Times"

Your Tuesday Briefing (The New York Times)

After Russia's capture of the cities of Sievierodonetsk and Lysychansk, Moscow controls the Luhansk province in eastern Ukraine. The Russian military relies ...

The Fox in the Forest is a lighter, more luck-based game for a laid-back vibe. Of all our picks, this is the one that feels the most like a modern multiplayer board game, but pared down to work perfectly with two players. Many L.G.B.T.Q. residents of America’s “gayborhoods” like the Castro, above, are choosing to live elsewhere in search of cheaper housing and better amenities. Games for two people have come a long way since checkers, backgammon and Battleship. Today, the best of them are just as complex and enthralling as any group game. For the moment, no. “For the moment, no. Seeking to match the latest forms of the virus, the F.D.A. asked vaccine manufacturers to target the BA.4 and BA.5 subvariants, rather than the version of Omicron that emerged last winter. Epidemiologists predict as many as 200,000 Covid deaths in the U.S. within the next year. At the scene of the shooting, lawn chairs remained scattered along the parade route as police with rifles patrolled the streets. The new cocktails are part of an effort to drastically speed up vaccine development and to appeal to Americans who have so far spurned booster shots. Covid deaths in the U.S. have recently begun rising, as cases surge. The city of Bakhmut has emptied out, as residents anticipate a coming assault.

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